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Tailgate Glass switch repair

17K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  LittleGreyCat  
#1 ·
So my tailgate glass stopped opening when I push the button under the wiper. No I haven't got a T3.

Removed the cover over the wiper arm which revealed 2 wires coming through from inside the tailgate and disappearing under some silicon sealer.

Removing the silicon revealed a small PCB which the two wires were soldered onto.

Shorted across the two wires and Bingo! - Glass opens, so the likely suspect is the switch underneath.

To remove the PCB and get at the switch it was necessary to trim off the tops of two black locating pins which were spread over - then the PCB came out.

Unsoldered the two wires and began to investigate in the comfort of the kitchen. The microswitch on the underside of the PCB is actually very easy to open up. I cleaned it up inside and put it back together.

I now find that the switch is working but there is no connection between one set of terminals and the soldered connection for the red wire on the other side. This looks like corrosion, but PCB is made up of copper connections inside the plastic (like a sandwich).

I then resorted to running a new small copper wire soldered directly to the switch terminal through to the other side to where the red wire is soldered. Applied some silicon grease to protect the switch, and then reassembled the PCB onto the car, resoldered the wires and result!

Used small blob of araldite on the locating pins to lock it down and applied silicon sealer over the whole thing to protect it.

About an hour's work, but you do need good eyesight and nimble fingers!

Although the switch on mine was fine, I found this which would be a direct replacement if needed:

http://www.rapidonline.com/sku/Electronic-Components/Switches/Tactile-Switches/Miniature-tactile-switches/71703/78-0620
 

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#4 ·
Just thought I'd add to this, as I've got exactly the same issue (although the switch is too far gone so will need more than just a re-wire) and I've taken some clearer pictures which might help anyone else doing this fix.

When I removed my board (following Hunterlees guide above)the switch was hanging off the board as the top two contacts had corroded so badly they'd snapped off the switch body. You can see the level of corrosion here:

Image


I cleaned up the board after taking that photo, and repaired three of the pads (the top left pad is completely gone though) but will need to buy a new switch and run wires from the SMD resistor down to the missing pad, then across to the top right pad (I want to use all four contacts on the switch as this is how the original circuit is designed, possibly to spread the current to stay within the switches rating). I've overlaid the circuit onto the board in this pic to help anyone who needs to repair theirs:

Image


Lastly, I think I might know what was wrong with your board, Hunterlees. You can see in your pictures that you're missing the surface mount resistor (which is actually a 0Ω jumper) which would have caused the problem you were seeing. You could have just put a wire across those two pads to make the connection, I think.
 
#5 ·
#7 ·
Thanks for that, if I can fix it for a fiver without removing the rear wiper I'll be pleased.
Image


If I can't,mill bite the bullet and buy a new switch assembly!
 
#8 ·
New switch arrived today! Promptly soldered on and re-installed with plenty of liquid electrical tape.

Jobs a good un! All for a fiver.

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#11 ·
Perfect this thread.

Recently got the car and want this working.

Started following a video on YouTube which had ms try to remove wiper arm and then a 24mm bolt.

Snapped some plastic just trying to remove the wipe arm

I shall have to have a follow of thess instructions and hope it works and I don't make it worse

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
Noting the warning that this is an old thread.

I came here today to post a query about why my tailgate glass switch wasn't working.

I don't recall it ever working, but after not using the vehicle for a couple of months (long holiday) it just about turned over and started and then I realised that I had a warning that I hadn't seen before.
Tailgate glass was open.
Closed it and it locked in place, but couldn't open it again.

So - known fault, switch probably corroded, replacement might be available for around ÂŁ25.

Thanks.(y)
 
#13 ·
Mine was a bugger to replace mainly because I couldn't get the wiper arm off
.
So I cut down the circular part of the arm not realising that the serrated stub it sits on is tapered so I buggered that up as well!!
 
#14 ·
Noting that the switch sometimes works directly after the boot release switch in the driver's door has been used.
This seems to allow the switch under the wiper arm to act once to open the glass.
After shutting the tailgate glass again, back to normal.
The boot unlock switch in the remote control doesn't seem to make any difference.