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Buying a used Touareg. What to look for. Rate Topic: ***** 4 Votes

#1 User is offline   Geraout 

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:47 AM

There have been a number of requests from new members asking what to look for when buying a used Treg. I thought it may be useful to gather all the info into one post which could perhaps be pinned.

I’ve prepared a draft below. I wonder if the regs could suggest any amendments or additions, I'm sure I've missed some.
(Some of you may recognise your comments from previous posts that I have cut & pasted !)

Buying a used Touareg. What to look for.
All of the points below are well documented on the forum. For more info on any of them just do a search.

Original Touareg (T1) 7L (2002 -2007)
Facelift model 7L (T2) (2007-2010)
Second generation model 7P (T3) (2010-2015)
Facelift model 7P (T4) (2015-2017)


The later 240 bhp V6 TDI is a cracking engine but this only appeared from 2007 onwards. There was an earlier less powered V6TDI version (225bhp) which was fitted in cars from about 2004 - 2007) and the R5 engine which had 174 bhp - many owners are happy with the R5 but the general consensus is that a V6 is smoother and obviously more powerful.
Also the touchscreen RNS510 Sat Nav unit with 30gb hard drive only came in the face lifted models, but also not that some early facelifts were also fitted with the DVD based MFD2/RNS2 units.
According to the media reports, VW engineered some 2300 redesigned parts and technological features in the facelift model but some common faults still remained - eg, valve chest, stepper motor, centre propshaft bearing, coolant loss/EGR valve, water pump, electrical gremlins, etc, so do some research and get familiar with the common issues - plenty of info/threads to read here.

The Touareg is a great car but you need to appreciate that it can be expensive to maintain, it was built and marketed as a prestige car and there are few independent VW specialists around with the equipment, knowledge and skills required, so you may well have to end up at a main dealership to put it right - some are good and some are bad as members can testify. Buy the best car you can afford and get a warranty - this latter advice will no doubt be endorsed by others

Know your Touareg
The best thing any prospective Touareg buyer can do is to invest several evenings looking through the threads on here to get a feel for the problems. Remember people come to forums when they have a problem so don't be too put off!


These are not budget Cars
Touaregs were expensive when new and they can be very expensive to repair. These are not cars for someone on a tight budget. Engines and gearboxes can run away with £5,000 each. The V10 engine costs over £10,000 and it takes 30 hours to remove and replace it.
There are next to no VW specialists serving the Touareg community. There are plenty for your Polo, Golf or Passat, but definitely not for the Touareg [some don't even have car lifts man enough to lift 2.5 tons] so you are probably going to be in the hands of main dealers and their labour rates. But even here there are few dealers recommended for their Touareg knowledge but at least they may have the right tools to do the repairs!
Unlike Land Rover where you have an excellent choice of independents AND alternative sources for parts, with the Touareg most of the bits have to be sourced from VW and you can either pay dealer prices [sometimes things are very reasonable, sometimes not!] or use one of the motor factors who offer decent discounts.
And don't think that if you are buying new or nearly new, VW dealers are going to roll out the red carpet as you buy one of their top of the range cars. They don't. And VW GB don't give a sh"t either even if you have a serious problem with a brand new car!


Recalls are often overlooked so check your proposed purchase here; Recall Checker

Recall 90D7
Check for sticker in boot next to tyre storage area confirming that the recall work has been done. Work varied by chassis number but included stepper motor issues.

Valve chest
Judder when auto box changes down from 5th to 4th gear under load. The 5th to 4th clunk is a well known gearbox problem requiring a new valve chest at about £1900 at the VW dealer or half that price if you go to an independent who refurbishes them. Lots have had it done at 60-90K.

Prop shaft mounting
Vibration felt under centre console storage bin area. VW will only replace full shaft at £1500. Plenty of posts for recommendations for repairers who will replace just the bearing for about £250. Now looked on as a routine maintenance item at 5 years / 60k.

Stepper motors
Juddering on full lock right or left turning circle. Find an empty car park. Should have been addressed by recall 90D7.

Steering rack and bushes.
There have been problems requiring wishbone or even full steering rack replacement. Listen for creaking noises.

Windscreen wipers.
Can leave uncleared streak in middle of windscreen in front of driver. Cured by replacing wiper arms. Should have been done under warranty.

Auto light & wipers
If car is equipped check that they work. There have been problems with the sensor at the top of the windscreen.

Interior trim
Look for cracks in the wooden trim on the doors and dash. Check for peeling buttons and switch surrounds especially on drivers door.

Body
Check for rust around bottom of rear doors which form the wheelarch, especially inside.

Suspension
If equipped with air suspension, look for corrosion around the brass pneumatic fittings which are prone to corrosion and failure.

Headlight
The T1 has a mechanism that clips the whole headlight into place. It needs to be released with a fairly hefty twist using a special tool on a hex nut mounting. Over exuberant twisting can snap or shear the mounting and the whole headlight tray will need replacing in a bumper off job. Check that the mounting is intact. The T2 has a different system.

Xenon lights
If advertised as equipped with Xenons check that they are the genuine factory Xenons and not an aftermarket retro fit. Xenons are required by law to have auto levelling and headlamp washers. Cars with retro fitted Xenons will not have auto levelling and will fail MOT.

If factory fitted check that auto levelling and washers work, otherwise an MOT failure is again on the cards. When lights are switched on they should raise and lower themselves to test the auto levelling function. Washers come on when lights are on and screen washer stalk is held for over 4 seconds.

Privacy glass
Worth checking as it may be that the car has been fitted with a retro fit sticky back plastic film. Easily seen as it shows up the rear window antennas and demister wires, being applied inside the glass, rather than the factory fit where the actual glass is tinted so the wires are behind the tint rather than in front of the tint.

Alloy wheels

Look out for aftermarket "bling" alloy wheels. If they are non genuine VW wheels they may not have sufficient load bearing capability for off roading. They could also invalidate your insurance as a non approved modification. Tyres may also not be XL (extra load) type.

Tyres
Check for uneven wear which could be a tracking problem.
Must be same tyres in terms of tyre make, type, size and tread pattern on each axle (preferably same on all 4 corners). No more than 2mm difference in tread depth between tyres on same axle, and no more than 3mm difference between front & rear axles.
Outside this tolerance can cause transmission problems. Any tyre below 4 mm ought to be replaced anyway.

Air con / climate control
Listen to the HVAC system - any repeated clicking noises may cost you £500 for taking the dashboard apart to replace a £60 heater flap servo motor.
Check all the flaps send air where you expect it and the aircon is nice and cold.

Roof rails.
T2s had the option of longitudinal roof rails which are factory fit only. Look out for cars advertised with non genuine roof rails that are made to fit into the roof tracks designed for the cross roof bars. This type of roof rail is non load bearing for cosmetic styling only.
Usually are slightly too short and you can see the black plastic of the roof channels at either end.

Sat nav
Check for the latest version of mapping. RNS2/MFD2 is currently up to v9/2012 mapping. The latest firmware is V30. RNS510 Current version is version 8.
Check too as it may be a retrofit. All Tregs that had satnav fitted at the factory will have the full colour screen between the clocks on the instrument panel. Cars with no sat nav will have had a smaller monochrome red display and you will not get the full functionality. Also check that all the steering wheel buttons work for volume and track forward/back control etc. T1’s have a different canbus system to later vehicles and may not be compatible with a newer satnav. (Plenty of threads on this too).

Airbag light
Check the airbag check light is not illuminated. There have been problems with the wiring under the front seats and passenger airbag disabled lamp. Both problems disable the whole airbag system and again are an MOT failure.

Rust
The front wings are made of plastic. On a sunny day if you look up and under the wing you'll see they are translucent!
However, the rear doors are made of steel and there have been reports of rust.
Open the rear doors and look for bubbling under the paint on the curved inside edge [the curve that follows the forward edge of the rear wheel arch] that sits on the door rubbers.

Water Retention (not the personal affliction)
There are five areas where you may find water problems.
1. The sun roof drains can block. There are threads on here about this.
2. The bulkhead drains can block with leaves over time. There are threads on here about this. It is easy to check by putting a hose at the bottom of the windscreen and seeing if water runs of of the front wheel arches where the drains emerge. If not it take 30 minutes to remove the wheel arch linings, pull the rubber drain bungs and clean the drains out on each side. NOTE that if the blockage is not cleared water can ingress through the pollen filter on the passenger bulkhead and run under the carpet where it can seriously damage ECUs and electrics down there so lift and check the underside of the carpet is dry! If not, get the pollen filter out and see if that it wet as well.
3. When you accelerate or brake you may hear water sloshing to and fro. This is a very easy fix. There are three grommets in each of the cills the run along under the doors on each side of the car. Remove a grommet and the retained water will run out. I threw the grommet away for a permanent solution as no one seems to know where this water comes from.
4. The air conditioning condensate pipe can block. Again there are threads on here about this.
5. If someone has been mean with the screen wash during the winter, the pipe to the rear wash wipe can freeze and burst in the rear roof lining on the driver's side between the rear door and the tailgate. Open the hatch and look up and to the right for water stains. It's a known problem and cost about £100 for a dealer to drop the lining and fix it. I recommend VW dealer as inexperienced hands may damage the one piece roof lining so in my opinion it is not worth the risk.

Brakes
Brakes can be done by any competent garage and thus save you up to 50% on VW dealers' prices tho' some dealers will try and price match so it's worth asking. Mine does and they're good - VW Maidenhead. Note some dealers try to tell you that you need new discs and pads well before the brake wear warning light comes on so be warned. You have at least 2,000 miles to get your car booked in when the light comes on so there's no need to rush into this maintenance unless there is a major fault.

Parking Brake Pedal
The parking brake pedal should engage in about 5 to 8 clicks. If it takes more, then the parking brake shoes which are inside a drum incorporated in the rear discs need adjusting or replacing. Becasuse they are only applied when the car is stationary, there is no friction so these drums rust badly and the reduced braking efficiency can fail the MoT test. Once a month, drive very slowly with the parking brake partially on for a couple of hundred yards to try and keep the rust at bay.

If, when you release the parking brake, the parking brake warning lights stays on, this is a very common problem that can be solved in several different ways. The first is to hook your left toecap under the pedal to pull it up the fraction of an inch it needs to turn the light off! The second is to count to two after you have pulled but before you release the parking brake handle. The third is to check the parking brake shoes are correctly adjusted to only take 5 to 8 clicks to set the brake. The fourth is to replace the tired hydraulic piston that pushes the pedal back up when you release the brake.

Road tax
Cars registered before 23rd March 2006 are placed in band K (cost as at April 2012 is £270). Cars registered after 23rd March 2006 are in band M. (cost as at April 2012 £475).
2012 T3 V6 SE 245PS

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#2 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:59 AM

RUST

The front wings are made of plastic. On a sunny day if you look up and under the wing you'll see they are translucent! (T1-T2)
However, the rear doors are made of steel and there have been reports of rust.
Open the rear doors and look for bubbling under the paint on the curved inside edge [the curve that follows the forward edge of the rear wheel arch] that sits on the door rubbers.

WATER RETENTION

There are five areas where you may find water problems.
1. The sun roof drains can block. There are threads on here about this.
2. The bulkhead drains can block with leaves over time. There are threads on here about this. It is easy to check by putting a hose at the bottom of the windscreen and seeing if water runs of of the front wheel arches where the drains emerge. If not it take 30 minutes to remove the wheel arch linings, pull the rubber drain bungs and clean the drains out on each side. NOTE that if the blockage is not cleared water can ingress through the pollen filter on the passenger bulkhead and run under the carpet where it can seriously damage ECUs and electrics down there so lift and check the underside of the carpet is dry! If not, get the pollen filter out and see if that it wet as well.
3. When you accelerate or brake you may hear water sloshing to and fro. This is a very easy fix. There are three grommets in each of the cills the run along under the doors on each side of the car. Remove a grommet and the retained water will run out. I threw the grommet away for a permanent solution as no one seems to know where this water comes from.
4. The air conditioning condensate pipe can block. Again there are threads on here about this.
5. If someone has been mean with the screen wash during the winter, the pipe to the rear wash wipe can freeze and burst in the rear roof lining on the driver's side between the rear door and the tailgate. Open the hatch and look up and to the right for water stains. It's a known problem and cost about £100 for a dealer to drop the lining and fix it. I recommend VW dealer as inexperienced hands may damage the one piece roof lining so in my opinion it is not worth the risk.

KNOW YOUR TOUAREG:

The best thing any prospective Touareg buyer can do is to invest several evenings looking through the threads on here to get a feel for the problems. Remember people come to forums when they have a problem so don't be too put off!

THESE ARE NOT BUDGET CARS

Touaregs were expensive when new and they can be very expensive to repair. These are not cars for someone on a tight budget. Engines and gearboxes can run away with £5,000 each. The V10 engine costs over £10,000 and it takes 30 hours to remove and replace it.
There are next to no VW specialists serving the Touareg community. There are plenty for your Polo, Golf or Passat, but definitely not for the Touareg [some don't even have car lifts man enough to lift 2.5 tons] so you are probably going to be in the hands of main dealers and their labour rates. But even here there are few dealers recommended for their Touareg knowledge but at least they may have the right tools to do the repairs!
Unlike Land Rover where you have an excellent choice of independents AND alternative sources for parts, with the Touareg most of the bits have to be sourced from VW and you can either pay dealer prices [sometimes things are very reasonable, sometimes not!] or use one of the motor factors who offer decent discounts.
And don't think that if you are buying new or nearly new, VW dealers are going to roll out the red carpet as you buy one of their top of the range cars. They don't. And VW GB don't give a sh"t either even if you have a serious problem with a brand new car!

BRAKES:

Brakes can be done by any competent garage and thus save you up to 50% on VW dealers' prices tho' some dealers will try and price match so it's worth asking. Mine does and they're good - VW Maidenhead. Note some dealers try to tell you that you need new discs and pads well before the brake wear warning light comes on so be warned. You have at least 2,000 miles to get your car booked in when the light comes on so there's no need to rush into this maintenance unless there is a major fault.


PARKING BRAKE PEDAL

The parking brake pedal should engage in about 5 to 8 clicks. If it takes more, then the parking brake shoes which are inside a drum incorporated in the rear discs need adjusting or replacing. Becasuse they are only applied when the car is stationary, there is no friction so these drums rust badly and the reduced braking efficiency can fail the MoT test. Once a month, drive very slowly with the parking brake partially on for a couple of hundred yards to try and keep the rust at bay.
If, when you release the parking brake, the parking brake warning lights stays on, this is a very common problem that can be solved in several different ways. The first is to hook your left toecap under the pedal to pull it up the fraction of an inch it needs to turn the light off! The second is to count to two after you have pulled but before you release the parking brake handle. The third is to check the parking brake shoes are correctly adjusted to only take 5 to 8 clicks to set the brake. The fourth is to replace the tired hydraulic piston that pushes the pedal back up when you release the brake.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#3 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 17 April 2012 - 09:05 PM

I found this on the US site. You'll need to translate Americanisms/procedures yourself.

As the OP on that site says [and I concur] "You might find this Delivery Checklist useful. There is no name on the document so I can't give credit for whoever created it. Thanks to the person who put the time and effort into it. Anyway here it is."

Customer Request for Checks before Delivery

Range of the Key Fob Remote
Please check the range of the remote key and if it’s less than 30 feet from the rear driver’s side please fix it. But don’t just do what the TSB says... do this instead:
THIS IS A 100% FIX TO EVERYONES REMOTE RANGE ISSUES WITH TOUAREG!!!!!!! - FINALLY A BREAKTHROUGH! After the dealer I purchased My Treg from did the fix 2 times per the VW Bulletin, I only got an additional 2-3 feet of distance. [...] Here is what was done. The tech disconnected the antenna in the front passenger fender and re ran the antenna to the driver side and up the front driver side door frame all the way to the top. [...]. THAT's IT! There's nothing else to it. ITS FIXED. The tech said this is how it is done on almost every VW and doesn't understand why they changed this for the Touareg. But nonetheless, It's fixed!. All those out there with this problem, be persistent with your dealer and have them contact VW Customer care and a their field rep to get involved.
[quoted from http://forums.vwvort...ead?id=1190869]

Drive Train Vibration
A number of people, in both V6s and V8s, have reported vibrations at speeds above 40 mph. In at least a few cases the cause of the problem is an imperfect drive shaft. I’ll be looking out for that on the test drive but if one of your guys can specifically check beforehand it would be terrific.
Vibration Issue - the tech told me he went to a meeting/training yesterday and they were told of the drive shaft issue. VW does know the fix is a V8 prop shaft, he said they pegged 42mpg as the starting point for more than normal vibration.
[quoted from http://forums.vwvort...ead?id=1178320]
Battery Shutoff Switch
Check that the battery shutoff switch under the driver’s seat was properly removed that the removed shutoff switch nut is tight.
The service manager said the Tregs draw an unusual amount of power, so they have a mechanical cutoff switch under the driver's seat for shipping. At port they remove the switch and tighten everything down. They removed the switch but they didn't tighten down the nut. [quoted from http://forums.vwvort...ead?id=1135991]

Wiring Harness at Engine
There is a wiring harness near (in?) the engine that can get chewed through, leading to battery drains and other electrical problems. It appears to be a known problem. If possible, please check if this one is ok. [Relevant thread: Electrical Nightmare -Wiring harness at engine ! http://forums.vwvort...ead?id=1188454]

Misc
Check light level and adjustment
Check for optically wavy windshield (this appears to be common)
Before Test Drive
1. repairs?
2. fluid levels?
3. tires and tire pressure?
4. key fob remote range?
5. exterior (thorough check)
6. windshield smooth?
7. roof rack (remove and put back on)
8. engine compartment
9. underbody (get under)
10. doors, hood, rear hatch fit and function
11. trunk
12. spare tire
13. interior (thorough check)
14. windshield wavy?
15. glove compartment
16. head rest adjustment
17. arm rest front
18. cupholders
19. arm rest back
20. rear sunshades
21. back seat folding
22. front seat controls
23. window controls
24. sunroof controls
25. steering wheel positioning
26. rear mirror positioning
27. lights
28. wipers front and rear
29. air suspension levels
30. compressor function
During test drive:
31. HVAC controls and function
32. Radio controls and function
33. Function of misc controls
34. Check for rough shifting in the 1->2 or 2->3 transition
35. Listen for wind whistle from side mirrors (280)
36. Listen for rumbling sound at 40-50 mph
37. Place hand (finger tips only) on the center console at 50 mph
38. Listen for steering wheel groan
39. Listen/feel for vibrations in slow turns
40. Drive over speed bumps, not in sport mode, with ESP both turned off and on
After test drive
41. Check for fluid leaks
42. Meet service manager
43. Loaner policy
44. Cost of standard service
45. Cost if I buy the oil

PRE-DELIVERY READING

GENERAL
http://www.fool.com/...rWorksheets.htm

FINANCING
http://www.fool.com/...2002/020911.htm
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1111275

STELLAR DELIVERY ROUTINE
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1137138

PRE-DELIVERY
Dealer
Check key fob range. If it’s less than it should be, cut antenna out of wiring harness.
Ask for the learned driving habits to be reset
Ask for wheels to be balanced with road force machine
Ask about loaner policy (and get it in writing)
Us
Call insurance agent

AT DELIVERY

Take with to dealer
freiheit, GPS (for checking speedo accuracy)
titus
Classic CD
Rock CD
bike wheel to test compressor
measuring tape

You should receive
(1) Manual
(2) Remote Flip Keys
(2) Roofrack Keys
(1) Valet Key
(1) Low-profile headrest
(1) Mini flashlight
(1) Owner’s Manual check for section on how to tie key to seat is present; that’s an updated manual.
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1137165
(1) Video Cassette “Driving Your Touareg”
(1) Offroading CD
(1) Solar charger?
And appropriate owner’s documentation, title etc.

To be checked in the lot
Check steering wheel orientation
Check light level and adjustment
Check for optically wavy windshield
Check that the windshield surface is smooth
Noisy Wipers
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1134570
Ask to take off the roof rack and put it back on but only if the guy knows the ‘trick’
From: ROOF RACK, CLOSING LATCHES --- I M P O R T A N T
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1160253
Ask to be shown the headrest adjustment (couldn’t get it to work on the testdrive we took)
Ask to be shown to fold down back seat but only if the guy knows the ‘trick’
In step 2, are you pulling the strap diagonally up and forward? Do you see the front part of the rear seat botton lift a little up and move forward around an inch before you try to fold the seat bottom upwards?
From: Anyone Else Having a Problem Folding the Rear Seats?
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1098204
Ask to check whether the removed shutoff switch nut is tight.
The service manager said the Tregs draw an unusual amount of power, so they have a mechanical cutoff switch under the driver's seat for shipping. At port they remove the switch and tighten everything down. They removed the switch but they didn't tighten down the nut.
From: Help. Wife called. Treg almost dead at stoplight. Right now - real time. http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1135991

Problems others have had that could be checked for during test drive
Drive over speed bumps, not in sport mode, with ESP both turned off and on
Air suspension rebound, clicking problem
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1146364
Check for rough shifting in the 1->2 or 2->3 transition.
Rough shifts
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1186842
Listen for rumbling sound at 40-50 mph. If it’s there, check for which gear it’s in and whether it changes when using the tiptronic. Issue: is it the tires or the drivetrain?
Place your hand (finger tips only) on the center console at let's say 50 mph, if it feels like your touching the worlds largest pager on vibrate mode - you may want to consider the shaft replacement route.
V-6 Treg Rumbling Base sound only at 40-45 mph. Is it normal?
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1108751
V6 Tire Vibe Issue Resolution [NOT]
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1156510
Vibration, Tires, & ...... Drive Shaft??
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1178320
V-6 w/ Dunlop 16' Rumbling at 40-50mph Issue: Update [drive shaft indeed]
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1183765
Listen for wind whistle from side mirrors (280)
Brake Sqeeeeel & Wind Whistle. Anybody Else?
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1140128
is there a TSB for whistle from sidemirrors at over 40mph?
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1144521
Listen for steering wheel groan (Page Mill)
update on cracked wood trim and steering wheel groan
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1110343
Listen/feel for vibrations in slow turns (Page Mill). Issue: locking diff or drivetrain fault
Drivetrain Vibration / Locking
http://forums.vwvort...read?id=1163199
Foolish Delivery Checklist
So you bought a new car and it’s ready for you to pick up and drive off the lot. We know you’re excited to get on the road, but it is important not to rush the delivery process. Below you’ll find some general guidelines and a checklist for you to print out and use the day you pick up your new baby.
-- Call the salesperson ahead of time and let them know that you plan to perform a delivery check during daylight hours. Make an appointment -- getting through your checklist may take more than an hour.
-- Don’t depend on a “prep man” -- the dealer’s mechanics and preparation people -- to take care of every last detail. Inspect it yourself and if it isn’t right, have it corrected. Even the F&I manager may make a paperwork error. So look at all the documents once again.
-- Most dealers prefer to make spot (immediate) deliveries. Don’t accept this. Take some time to think things over. Most dealers will require a deposit. Go ahead and give them one, but limit the amount, and make sure that locks you into a specific VIN. Of course, remember that most incentives are tied to delivery dates, not purchase agreements or deposit dates.
-- A proper delivery means that all the vehicle attributes should be demonstrated or discussed with you prior to you taking the car. This hour can teach you volumes about your new vehicle. Even though you may know your car inside out after this day, commit to reading the owner’s manual.
-- Tell the salesperson that you don’t want any dealer nameplates affixed to the vehicle in any way (painted, riveted, or adhesive bonded). The license plate holder is okay. Ask that the vehicle’s plates remain the dealer’s until after you’ve taken delivery.
-- The laws vary from state to state as to when you actually own the vehicle, you may want to check with your state to find out. (Some states say you don’t own it until all the documents are signed and the vehicle is driven off the dealer’s premises.)
-- Call your insurance agent and arrange to have the vehicle under your policy the minute you take delivery. (Do this as far in advance as possible.)
We’ve included a list of items to check, it is not all-encompassing, but it will get you started down the road to obtaining a problem-free vehicle. Always remember that the dealership will be more receptive to making repairs before the sale. So have any corrections made before you take delivery.
Delivery Checklist
1. Does the VIN match what you agreed to purchase?
2. Is the mileage realistic, or has the dealer used the vehicle as a demo since you agreed to purchase it? (Be reasonable, but question anything greater than 150 miles.)
3. Ask the dealer personnel if any repairs or alterations have been made to the vehicle? (Accidents happen, even to new vehicles being delivered. An honest dealership will tell you, but you often have to ask.)
4. Is the exterior in perfect shape? (Not a blemish, scratch, or streak. Walk around the vehicle several times looking from as many angles as possible.)
5. Are the trim, rubstrips, decals, chrome, hood ornaments, and other exterior features present, in good shape (defect-free), and properly attached?
6. Doors, hoods, trunks, deck lids, and liftgates: Do they all work correctly? Do they seal properly? (You may not find this out until the test drive when you listen for noise.) Does the fit and finish match up between these and the rest of the body work? Do the locks work properly -- are they automatic, can they be operated remotely? Does the hood release lever operate from the inside. Do you know the location? Can you open the hood yourself? Does it stay up on its own?
7. Is the engine compartment in perfect shape? Is every dip stick, plastic cover, wire harness present and properly secured? All the fluids should be at optimal levels: oil, transmission, power steering, brake, windshield wash, and coolant. There should be very little dirt and grime, and not a single sign of fluid leakage of any kind. None of the engine components should show exterior wear or replacement -- things like one spark plug wire that is a completely different shade of black should draw a red flag and a question. They should replace them all with new items if that means you’ll drive the vehicle away. Question the same thing a week later and you’ll get a sour look.
8. Battery: Is it filled properly? Or is it a “no-service” type? (Check the level or sight dot.) No corrosion should be present on the electrodes. It should be properly connected -- fastened to wire leads and properly secured -- tied down in the vehicle. Ask about how to jump it properly. Does it have a special separate warranty?
9. Is the trunk in perfect shape? Is the carpeting properly fastened? Do the lights work correctly? Does the internal opening button work correctly? How about the outside lock? If it has gas shocks to hold up the lid, are they working properly? Are the extras, such as cargo nets, present as you ordered?
10. Fuel System: Which side is the filler door on? Can you open it from inside the vehicle? Does it lock? What grade of gasoline does the manufacturer recommend? How big is the tank? At what level does the fuel gauge on the dash register? (Many dealer’s will buy the first tank, just ask!) Does the dash have a low fuel level warning light? Is there anything special about filling this vehicle with gas (i.e. some gas caps make a ratcheting sound when properly tightened)?
11. Tires: Where is the spare tire and jack system located? Is the spare properly inflated? How far can you go on “the donut”? Is the jack present, accessible? Have you been given a briefing on the use of the jack? (And where do you install it?) If you have wheel locks, where is the lug key? Are all the tires the same and as ordered? (Some performance tires have several different speed ratings and associated cost levels. Check the specific numbers on each tire.) What is the proper air pressure? What is the tire warranty and where is it? The tires should show no signs of wear, and should be properly inflated. Tires should be scuff-free. Are the hubcaps properly affixed?
12. Is the interior in perfect shape? Carpet, headliner, seats should have no tears, stains, or damage. Get in the car (both the front and back seats) and keep your eyes peeled for problems. Try out any device that will move, bend, turn, be pushed, or pulled. Do all the seatbelts work? Are the floor mats you ordered in the car?
13. Look in the glove box. Does it open properly? Is the owner’s manual included? Does it lock?
14. Lighting and Signals. Know where the light switches are, and how they work. Where is the fuse box? Check the operation of all the lighting systems: headlights (low and high beams), tail lights, emergency flashers, brake lights, backing lights, trunk light, hood light, interior lights (map lights, dome lights, glove box, reading lights, running board lights). Does the vehicle have automatic shutoff? Is it for the headlights only? How long does the dome light stay on after unlocking and locking the door? Can you dim interior lights. What about the dashboard lights? Is the ignition switch lighted? Daytime running lights? Check left and right turn signals (front and back -- you’ll need a helper) proper operation, and switch positions.
15. Windows, Sunroofs and Mirrors: Make sure there are no defects (chips, cracks). Are the options installed and how they working? (Options may include rear defogger, wiper and tinting.) Proper open and close operation tested on each window. Control device operation and location - power window controls, rapid down operation? Wipers, controls, delay systems, rear window?
16. Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning: Do you understand all the controls and features of the climate control operations and control panel? Are there special defoggers? Special filters? Multi level systems? Front and rear controls? Temperature settings, and automatic controls? Duct operation? Fan controls?
17. Sound System: Do you understand how everything operates? Adjust the controls and get sound out of each speaker. Does it sound correct to your ear? Try a cassette and CD (bring one with you). How do special features, such as equalizers, amplifiers, and trunk mounted CD tower work?
18. Do you understand operations and precautions with the safety features, such as seat belts and air bags? Do you know where each is located? What about cellular phone and navigation systems operation?
19. Driver’s Seat: Do you know how to work the seat position controls and where they are located? Does the lumbar work? Note the steering wheel positioning, tilt, telescope, lock, horn, and cruise control. Examine the dashboard gauges and warning indicators -- turn the key one click and see what warning lights you get. Are these correct?
20. Dashboard and Controls: Do you understand all the gauges and what they tell you? If the gauges are digital, how do you change from English to Metric readings? Do you understand the trip odometer operation?
21. Keys: Do you have more than one set? Is the remote entry working? How does the alarm work (codes and disarmament)? Is there a panic button and cut off switch? Do the door locks have child protection?
The Test Drive
22. Get in and buckle up!
23. Ignition System: Does the car start properly?
24. Listen carefully to engine idle. Does it sound okay?
25. Look at the tailpipe. Any abnormal smoke or color? Moisture?
26. Brakes: Do you like the feel of the brake pedal (even and smooth)? How does the parking brake work? Does your foot have to be on the brake to shift out of park?
27. When you put the vehicle into gear, does it sound okay? Do the shift indicators line up with the proper gear that you are in (i.e. the indicator reads R when in reverse)?
28. Noise Check. Turn the radio off and use your senses. Drive over various road conditions and speeds that you know you will be frequenting. Listen for the Buzz Squeaks and Rattles (BSR) -- no tweet, tweet, tweet from the tailgate allowed. Also note NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) -- no loud thuds, or strange shaking between 50-55 MPH allowed.
29. Watch the gauges. Do they move and register properly? (Gauges include the odometer, speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, and coolant temperature.)
30. Run the air conditioning and heating. Do they appear to work properly?
31. Check the vehicles acceleration and braking for proper operation.
32. Check the cruise control for proper operation.
33. Check the vehicle’s handling: Can it turn a tight U-turn? Does it make any strange noises? Make right and left turns. Does the steering respond properly?

After the Spin
34. Open the hood and have a look. Any new fluid leaks? Is the radiator cap still on properly? (Have the service manager help with this one.) Check the oil and transmission levels yourself. Take a quick peek under the vehicle and make sure there are no fluids dripping on the pavement.
35. Is every option you ordered and paid for installed properly in the vehicle? So many options exist that it is impossible to make any kind of accurate listing. What is important is that what you’ve paid for is there, and that you know how to operate each one.
36. Has the vehicle been fully demonstrated, top to bottom, by the dealership? Do you understand how everything works on the vehicle?
37. Service Department: Have you met the service manager and taken a tour of the service area? Have they explained the specifics of the dealership’s service policy and hours of operation? (Some dealers are by appointment only, some are first-come first-served. Most treat buyers from their dealership better than other walk-in customers. So keep that license plate holder with the dealer’s name printed on it.) Has the service manager reviewed the basics of the service plan for your vehicle with you? Does the dealership have a free check up? What period of operation does it cover?
38. Does your vehicle have a 24-hour roadside assistance program? What does it entail?
39. Do you understand all your warranties? Limits? Coverage periods?
40. Did you buy a special service plan? What is covered?
41. Do you have a business card for each of the dealership personnel you’ve worked with?
42. Is every defect that you’ve noted been properly corrected?
43. Does the VIN on the vehicle match up with the documents that you are signing?
44. Have you read all the documents that you will sign? Do you have a copy of each document?
45. Title, Tags and Registration: Who holds the title? How long do the temporary tags last? Has the dealership ordered your new plates? Have your plates been transferred? Where is the registration located?
46. Insurance: Have you obtained proper insurance? If you’re leasing do you have Gap Insurance?
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#4 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 04:58 PM

One other thing, a lot of dealers INCLUDING VW DEALERS, do not describe cars accurately in their website descriptions.

Do please check by telephone before you travel to view it, that the car you may be interested in really does have the options you really want if they are deal breakers.

A classic case is the number of cars advertised as having xenons [a very important MUST HAVE for many as the halogen lights on T1 and T2 are crap].

All T1 and T2 Touaregs have the thick projector low beam light lenses which may lead a dealer to think they have xenons when they don't: the thick projector low beam lens is used for both the standard halogen AND the very rare optional extra xenon units.

Note that zenons are standard equipment on V8s and V10s though.

If you really want xenons, look at the pictures of the front of the car for the square plastic headlamp washer covers in the bumper a couple of inches below each headlight unit.

I seem to recall that cars with xenons have an easily identified, different chrome ring around the projector lens - perhaps someone else can help here?

So I repeat, do please check before travelling - quite a few folk have been p*ssed off when they arrive at the seller to find the car is not as advertised.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#5 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 07:24 PM

One of the questions potential buyers often ask is "How reliable is the Touareg?".

Here's a thread that tries to answer that question.

http://www.clubtouar...pare-14529.html
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#6 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 02:37 PM

Carefully check each of the door window seals: they perish.

These are the external horizontal seals at the bottom of each side window in each door.

They are very narrow and, in a worst case scenario, may have disappeared altogether!

EDITED 10 FEB 2013

The trims at the bottom of the side windows do not have rubber seals so I was WRONG!

What I thought were perished seals turned out to be bits of black crap that had accumulated between the seal and the glass over the years despite the windows being in frequent use!

The trims lift off on [on my T1] so I carefully removed them all and gave them a good scrub getting into all the nooks and crannies.

There was a lot of crud in the bottom of the bucket by the time I had finished!

I cleaned the crud of the door top edges carefully and the bottom of the windows too and then refitted the trims.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#7 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 03:08 AM

And this is what Warranty Direct think after paying out our Touareg warranty claims!

http://www.reliabili...lity/search/346
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#8 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 09:24 AM

These threads are specifically for would-be T3 owners, second hand AND new and relate to a known issue of steering wheel vibration that, in some cases, has resulted in VW having to buy cars back as the vibration could not be fixed.
The problem is world-wide and is not limited to US left hand drive cars:
http://www.clubtouar...hake-77157.html

http://www.clubtouar...g-t3-81972.html

Things you may not know about the Touareg:

http://www.clubtouar...crets-7688.html

Edit - latest update as of August 2017 - T4 models particularly affected including the latest R-Line Plus version. VW now acknowledge the problem but have stated no current fix is available. This is a design flaw and buyers are advised to proceed with caution until VW do something about it - the following thread highlights the problem and see post #99 in particular:

http://www.mytreg.co...ottle-movement/

Note that dealers may buy-back affected cars but purchasers of used cars from independent garages or from private sellers may get stuck with a problem car :blink:

Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#9 User is offline   HEHEY 

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 11:04 AM

 NoobyT, on 26 January 2013 - 03:08 AM, said:

And this is what Warranty Direct think after paying out our Touareg warranty claims!

http://www.reliabili...lity/search/346


Have a look at all the big 4x4 models, Land Rover, VW, Jeep, Volvo etc. - almost all get a poor reliability rating. I'd assume as they are bigger, more complex and have twice as much drivetrain there's a whole lot more to go wrong.
Currently On The Drive
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Renault Trafic (Mr H)
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Still Wants:
Bedford T Series

Once had a Treg but like the banter on here :-)

#10 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:00 PM

This model is now available as a used vehicle, so here's how the VW Touareg Hybrid works:

http://my.vw.com/2013-touareg/hybrid

Just a bit more info for folk to see:

http://www.autoexpre...g/running-costs

On older cars, inspect the rear anti-roll bar carefully for cracks and rust. There have been several reports of these snapping as mine has just done on the "down" bend on the offside.

Some people have replaced theirs with the stiffer Porsche Cayenne bar and bushes which are similarly priced.

I found a near new one on fleabay for £40 delivered and my little man fitted it for £50 versus a quote of over £600 for parts and labour at the dealer!
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#11 User is offline   Cass 

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 01:07 PM

For new T3 owners - carefully check the outer door skins on both the drivers and front passenger doors.

There is an internal strengthening panel which runs across the inside of the door and is bonded to the outer door skin. It is evident that some T3's have distorted door skins as a result of an apparent manufacturing issue (although this has previously been disputed by VW UK).

The location of the internal panel can be seen in this link - T3 Tech Docs section of the forum, Self-study Programme 449 - page 11:

http://www.mytreg.co...-programme-449/

To get a good view of the distortion, squat down near the rear wheel and carefully look up/down and forward/back across the front door - it is best to have a contrasting background/foreground against the car and the problem can be noticed more easily on cars with a dark metallic colour, eg deep black pearl.

It will be impossible to rectify this defect unless the door skin is replaced or filled/painted, so look carefully at the car BEFORE you buy it ;)
Current - 2013 R-Line 245 PS in Pure White Special, 12 way Elec Seats in Vienna, Memory Pack, Air Susp CDC, Swivelling Towbar, TPMS and Spacesaver Spare - Gtechniq TSP treatment : )

Previous - 2012 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0 TDI 245PS, Deep Black Pearlescent and 2009 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0TDI 240PS, Diamond Black Pearlescent

#12 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 11:00 PM

Real world fuel consumption figures are available here:

http://www.honestjoh...en/touareg-2003 [but no 3.2 petrols!]

and here:

http://www.fuelly.co...kswagen/touareg

Things you may not know about your Touareg:

http://www.clubtouar...crets-7688.html

And for T3 owners:

http://www.mytreg.co...-about-your-t3/

R5 and V10 owners:

http://www.mytreg.co...345#entry114345
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#13 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 26 April 2013 - 03:08 PM

Use for maintenance:

http://www.mytreg.co...018#entry115018

More technical stuff plus Technical Service Bulletins [TSBs] issued by VW for fixes:

http://www.billswebs...TouaregTSBs.htm

Plus loads more stuff on the Touareg:

http://www.billswebs...m/vwtouareg.htm

Another source of Touareg information:

http://api.viglink.c..._13688257051387

And if you want to see how smashed up your Touareg can get and still walk away:

http://www.mytreg.co...406#entry116406

If you are thinking of towing with your Touareg, then you should read this thread which, as I type this post, is currently developing so there is no conclusion as yet on the question posed by the OP who started it:

http://www.mytreg.co...es-fan-upgrade/

If anyone has any views on 600W fan versus 850W fan, please post them on the linked thread, not here so that all the info is in one place.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#14 User is offline   Tregless 

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 06:45 PM

Finally due to pick up our used 61' plate T3 Altitude on Friday, with new plastic wheelarches and the tow-free towbar (see previous threads)! Have reviewed the helpful guides on here along the way. Thanks to everyone.

I've done the test drive, looked the vehicle over and checked that the doors aren't Cass'd etc. already. And have got a 3 year warranty thrown in. We also bought a spare wheel to replace the repair kit goo, and rubber interior mats.

I have been preparing my checklist for the pickup, to make sure I drive off the forecourt with everything in the vehicle which should be in the vehicle, sold as seen, buyer beware and all that. 

Can anyone tell me if there is anything missing from this list that should theoretically be in the car?

Boot

- Spare wheel
- Restraining bolt for wheel
- Jack
- Locking wheel nut key
- Wheel nut cover removal tool thingy
- Wheelbrace
- Pump
- Tire repair kit
- Warning triangle?

Cabin

- Two keys (?)
- Rubber floor mats (ordered separately) 
- First aid kit?
- User Manual 
- 850 Manual (separate?)
- Log Book
- Service History
Tregless

2011 T3 Altitude [Cool Silver, Panoramic Roof, 4-zone climate, Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season, Spacesaver]
2019 eGolf [Indium Grey, Vienna Leather, Dynamic LED headlights, Discovery Pro Nav, Winter]
[previous] 2008 Saab 9-3 Sportwagon; 2001 Mark IV Golf; 1966 Saab Sport (2 stroke); 1970 Morris Minor

#15 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 05:22 AM

For anyone buying a used T3 which they intend to use for towing, be aware of this thread wherein it appears that unless the car was specified with a towbar from the factory when new, the car's cooling fan may need to be upgraded from the standard 600W to 850W at a cost of about £800.

http://www.mytreg.co...es-fan-upgrade/

Edit by Cass - July 2017: Also, for factory fitted swivelling towbars ordered as an optional extra, new and subsequent owners should physically check that the correct 850W fan has been fitted as there are reports of some cars being supplied from the factory with the lesser 600W fan - there is a sticker on the inboard (engine side) of the fan displaying the power rating. Report this immediately to your supplying dealer and it should be replaced FOC by VW. This applies to the T3 and T4 models and there have been several reports of the incorrect and lower rated fan being fitted at the factory and I correct fitting data has been known to be recorded on VW dealers databases. A physical check is needed to locate and read the build sticker on the inside of the fan and a small mirror or mobile phone image is useful to view/record the sticker.

And having bought your Touareg, here's a great source of DIY fixes:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/

Do read the rules if you join this site: the DIY section is NOT the place to ask any questions.


I may have been mentioned elsewhere but it's worth repeating:

New owners of a used Touareg should visit their VW dealer's service department to introduce themselves [they'll often do a free vehicle check whilst you wait but don't get taken in by the "You need new discs and pads all round and that'll be £1,000, Sir/Madam"] and ask them to print off the build sheets for the newly acquired car.

These 6-8 pages can be very useful especially as some people have found options fitted they did not know their car had!

Here's a site with self study programs:

http://www.google.co...areg&gsc.page=1

Here's a link to someone who has done a good write-up of his years of Touareg ownership:

http://www.mytreg.co...649#entry187649

All you need to know about the warning lights that may appear on your car and the level of importance and action required:

http://www.volkswage.../warning-lights

This may help potential new owners understand the technology in the Touareg:

http://en.volkswagen...l-glossary.html

Some owners get wind noise as though a window is slightly open.

On some cars this will be the door mirrors and there is a fix:

http://forums.vwvort...Mirror-spoilers

Need to look up the options codes for the car you are looking at?

If at a VW dealer, ask them to print out the data sheets for the car, also known as the build sheets. Ask service if sales look blank!

Otherwise take a picture of the sticker by the spare wheel in the boot/trunk and insert the codes in this search facility:

http://prsearch.planetvag.com

54 pages of general info on the T1:

http://www.volkspage...ssp/SSP_297.pdf
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#16 User is offline   Cass 

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 06:58 PM

 roytour, on 18 December 2013 - 05:23 PM, said:

..
the link don't work looking at trading in for a nearly new one :) looked at the doors but could not see any issue but then i am blind as a bat


It's in the Tech Docs section of this forum - T3 Self-study Programme 449 - I've amended the original closed link but here it is again:

http://www.mytreg.co...-programme-449/
Current - 2013 R-Line 245 PS in Pure White Special, 12 way Elec Seats in Vienna, Memory Pack, Air Susp CDC, Swivelling Towbar, TPMS and Spacesaver Spare - Gtechniq TSP treatment : )

Previous - 2012 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0 TDI 245PS, Deep Black Pearlescent and 2009 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0TDI 240PS, Diamond Black Pearlescent

#17 User is offline   Alphabetagamma 

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 12:10 PM

Some advice please guys, if you don't mind..

Hi all, I'm new to both Touaregs (not purchased yet), this forum, and forums in general, so apologies for any mistakes.
I have learnt a lot just through reading topics on here, so thank you, I have my mind set on a second hand 3.0 V6 TDI, although a few questions prevail which I'm sure you will help answer.

So I'm looking at either an 05/06 model or an 07 facelift model, I know the tax is a lot higher on the facelift model so I suppose my question is, is it worth paying that extra per year? And does the 3.0 TDI engine differ between the first and facelift model? T1 & T2 is it?

Lastly, excuse my ignorance (you can tell I'm not used to luxury cars :-)) but can someone tell me the difference between the specs of SE, sport, and standard models please, in the years 05/06/07 V6 TDI'S, look forward from benefiting from your wealth of knowledge, thanks.

#18 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 01:27 PM

Buy as late a T2 with as low miles as you can afford, and get and keep a good warranty going.

If you have to worry about the extra bit of road tax you shouldn't be buying a Touareg!

And I hope you have taken the time to fully read this thread!
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#19 User is offline   Cass 

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Posted 22 June 2014 - 03:15 PM

Old model brochures here, so you can check the standard specs of each model:

http://www.volkswage...ed/old-brochure
Current - 2013 R-Line 245 PS in Pure White Special, 12 way Elec Seats in Vienna, Memory Pack, Air Susp CDC, Swivelling Towbar, TPMS and Spacesaver Spare - Gtechniq TSP treatment : )

Previous - 2012 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0 TDI 245PS, Deep Black Pearlescent and 2009 VW Touareg Altitude 3.0TDI 240PS, Diamond Black Pearlescent

#20 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 01:54 PM

And for anyone buying an R5 or a V10 here's something else to read on the correct oil to use [and note - yet again - that even some VW dealers get it wrong!]:

http://www.clubtouar...html#post858529
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]

VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7

Models, engines, build years, etcetera - all essential reading - is here:

http://en.wikipedia....kswagen_Touareg

The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used VW Touareg that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:

http://www.mytreg.co...at-to-look-for/


FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

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