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Chairman
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This is a possible new centre bearing fix given that, in most cases, it is only the surrounding rubber bush that fails.

This item could possibly be carried in the boot as a get you home fix that could be permanent!

The Germany based guy making these charges US$80 plus shipping.

https://flic.kr/p/8
http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/drive-shaft-bearing-failure-49135-37.html

There is also this at US$250 including shipping [don't know about import duty though] but it does require you to remove and dismantle the shaft.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2792633/

In both cases, do re-grease the actual bearing.

Here are some pix and a video on how-to - see posts #163 to 166 inclusive:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f95/driveshaft-carrier-bearing-lifespan-27751-17.html
 

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What a great idea
 

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Chairman
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It's blue so I've christened it "The Viagra Fix" . . . and it does firm up a wobbly shaft!!
 

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Looks neat but just how easy would it be to thoroughly remove all of the rubber remains from the outer race of the bearing while lying on your back at the side of the road? Still a good emergency 'get you home' solution though but once mobile again, I'd be tempted to get a more permanent fix done soon and remove the Viagra and keep in the boot for another day
It's good that some folk are looking into more practical fixes for this problem though.

To date, the £250 Firow fix on the Treg has done 20K miles and has been fine. If others don't mind the travel to get to Firow and are happy to have either a new bearing put on their own shaft, or what I did and have a different used shaft with new bearing fitted, giving yours up in exchange... then I can wholly recommend them as an alternative
 

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Mrs H puts something like that between her toes when she Ronseals her nails.
 

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Chairman
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
 

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Chairman
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69.00 euros plus 9.90 euros P&P
 

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Nooby, the ECS solution requires you to remove the driveshaft (and of course rebalance it)

Vertex automotive also sells a good solution (I ordered theirs as a spare)

Lastly I will again suggest: an ounce of prevention is better than a lot of pounds (sterling that is).

PREVENTATIVELY do yourself a favor. Unscrew the center bearing carrier plate and with a toothbrush gently clean out all the crap that's built up during the year. Once that's clean, run some compressed air around to get all the stuff out making sure you don't aim directly at the rubber part (do wear goggles). Once that's done liberally coat with silicone oil the rubber part and you're good for another year. Keep it clean and lubed (I can hear Nooby "coming" a mile away already) and you won't need any of these solutions.

siberian
 

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Nooby, the ECS solution requires you to remove the driveshaft (and of course rebalance it)

Vertex automotive also sells a good solution (I ordered theirs as a spare)

Lastly I will again suggest: an ounce of prevention is better than a lot of pounds (sterling that is).

PREVENTATIVELY do yourself a favor. Unscrew the center bearing carrier plate and with a toothbrush gently clean out all the crap that's built up during the year. Once that's clean, run some compressed air around to get all the stuff out making sure you don't aim directly at the rubber part (do wear goggles). Once that's done liberally coat with silicone oil the rubber part and you're good for another year. Keep it clean and lubed (I can hear Nooby "coming" a mile away already) and you won't need any of these solutions.

siberian
Good tip Siberian and if you can hear Nooby "coming" all the way from Alaska, you have some ears
 

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Nooby is loud , I thought we had a sonic boom the other day then I realised...
 

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Nooby, the ECS solution requires you to remove the driveshaft (and of course rebalance it)

Vertex automotive also sells a good solution (I ordered theirs as a spare)

Lastly I will again suggest: an ounce of prevention is better than a lot of pounds (sterling that is).

PREVENTATIVELY do yourself a favor. Unscrew the center bearing carrier plate and with a toothbrush gently clean out all the crap that's built up during the year. Once that's clean, run some compressed air around to get all the stuff out making sure you don't aim directly at the rubber part (do wear goggles). Once that's done liberally coat with silicone oil the rubber part and you're good for another year. Keep it clean and lubed (I can hear Nooby "coming" a mile away already) and you won't need any of these solutions.

siberian
Is it lubrication or rubber preservation that is the target ? or both ?
 

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Is it lubrication or rubber preservation that is the target ? or both ?
Rubber preservation only to stop the rubber from perishing.

My late, ex, father-in-law (don't ask) owned a rubber factoring business and he always said silicon spray or silicon grease was the best, nothing petroleum based that might remove the natural oils in the rubber. So when every I am under the car, or have wheel off etc. I always spray silicone on all of the exposed rubber bushes that I come across.
 

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Absolutely Roytour, it's PRESERVATION. The rubber part gets dry and brittle not only by age but by the amount of crap (dirt, gravel...) that lodges there and starts destroying the rubber. By adding silicone spray (WD40 could do in a pinch, but I would recommend silicone) you keep the part lubricated. It's really a small job that pays off big. It will of course eventually need to be replaced, but you can get several more years out of it by doing this small preventative step. Perhaps a PIN to the suggestion could be made Loz?

siberian

PS I would do the silicone spray on ALL rubber door seals, bonnet parts etc. once a year
 

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Chairman
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Right. Well the proof of the Christmas pudding is in the quality of the brandy as they say, so ...

My centre bearing let me know on Christmas Day evening with a few thumps through the centre console that it really wasn't happy now [I already knew it needed doing] so Tommy Treg has been parked up for a while as I was using another vehicle anyway for various reasons.

I debated whether to let WD pick up the tab for another new shaft but decided I'd give the Viagra fix a go.

So I ordered the little blue ring by email last Saturday, got the invoice by return, and paid on-line on Monday [no PayPal so £10 for the transfer].

A white envelope dropped on the hall mat on Thursday morning containing the little blue ring, a few zip-ties, a hard copy of the invoice, and a very clear set of instructions.

Pic below.

Today I arrived at my little man at 1.00 pm and, after having a laugh and a joke, and playing with his dog [who uses the wheels of cars descending on the wheels-free lift to scratch his own back!] left at 1.40 pm, sorted.

I've done about 20 miles, up to speed . . . and all seems well.

This is the first time I've really looked at the rubber that fails.

There is a rubber ring the full width and circumference of the bearing on the shaft. It's only a few mm thick

There is a rubber ring [again only a few mm thick] the full width and circumference on the internal side of the metal bearing support [the piece with the two bolt holes for securing it].

Between those two rings, what I had always thought was solid rubber, is actually a 3 mm [or thereabouts]thick diaphragm centred on those two rubber rings.

As a result, after undoing the mounting plate and pushing the bearing support towards the front of the car [the diaphragm just tore off], it was incredibly easy, using just the blade of a Stanley knife, to trim the remains of the diaphragm from the two solid rubber rings mentioned above to provide a clean surface for Viagra to sit on.

You then mount Viagra inside the steel bearing support and affix the zip ties to hold it in place.

Then give everything a spray of silicone to facilitate sliding the support bracket containing Viagra back onto the prop shaft bearing before bolting it all up.

Mark various points beforehand to make sure it all goes back in the same place to keep the shaft true.

All in, it's cost me £120 and an hour of my day.

Time will tell whether it's durable.

With patience and dexterity, it could just about be a roadside repair: but you'd need the right spanners to start with and it would be a bugger of a job in a cramped undercar space.

So, if you need to keep a roadside fix on board, cut some short lengths of 1/2" reinforced steering hose and put them in a bag with some cable ties. As long as you have a sharp knife to roughly remove the remnants of the diaphragm [you wouldn't need to trim as above just for a get-you-home], you should be able to effect a repair to keep you going.
 

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Hi Nooby,

After a bit of spirited off roading yesterday, my centre bearing has now failed. (There was no way I was going to let my car get stuck when it was the only Touareg surrounded by a dozen Landrovers!)

Anyway, I'm going to try this Viagra fix, but I have a couple of questions:

- Have you got a link for where to buy it from?
- Would you say it was a permanent repair, or just a temporary one until a proper bearing is fitted?

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Member
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Hi Nooby,

After a bit of spirited off roading yesterday, my centre bearing has now failed. (There was no way I was going to let my car get stuck when it was the only Touareg surrounded by a dozen Landrovers!)

Anyway, I'm going to try this Viagra fix, but I have a couple of questions:

- Have you got a link for where to buy it from?
- Would you say it was a permanent repair, or just a temporary one until a proper bearing is fitted?

Thanks,

Steve
Have you any photo's of your off-roading Steve? I've a wee thread here http://www.mytreg.co...026#entry494026 that I update when I remember.
 

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Chairman
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Hi Nooby,

After a bit of spirited off roading yesterday, my centre bearing has now failed. (There was no way I was going to let my car get stuck when it was the only Touareg surrounded by a dozen Landrovers!)

Anyway, I'm going to try this Viagra fix, but I have a couple of questions:

- Have you got a link for where to buy it from?
- Would you say it was a permanent repair, or just a temporary one until a proper bearing is fitted?

Thanks,

Steve
I'd say permanent but do put a bit of grease in the remaining bearing as well whilst you are under there - a lot easier on a ramp/lift by the way.

The guy's email address is on the bottom of these photos:

https://flic.kr/p/8
In the meantime, if you cut off the thin diaphragm bit of rubber that will have torn you can pack it with an old bike inner tube or some lengths of reinforced power steering/hydraulic hose using some cable ties to secure the pieces. Someone in the US did 40K on this latter fix!
 

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I'd say permanent but do put a bit of grease in the remaining bearing as well whilst you are under there - a lot easier on a ramp/lift by the way.

The guy's email address is on the bottom of these photos:

https://flic.kr/p/8
In the meantime, if you cut off the thin diaphragm bit of rubber that will have torn you can pack it with an old bike inner tube or some lengths of reinforced power steering/hydraulic hose using some cable ties to secure the pieces. Someone in the US did 40K on this latter fix!
Thanks for the quick reply
I've sent him an email.

I don't need to do a temp repair, thankfully. My unit is about half a mile from home so I'll just nurse it to there and fix it in one go. Sadly, I don't have a lift though - I could really do with one!
 

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Have you any photo's of your off-roading Steve? I've a wee thread here http://www.mytreg.co...026#entry494026 that I update when I remember.
I've just commented on your thread, but I don't have any photos I'm afraid.

Just imagine a long, very steep, muddy, slippy bumpy incline with several Land Rovers waiting at the bottom while a Touareg is trying to get up it. Said Touareg has had a couple of goes at the top 15' of the incline and has run out of traction. I was in low range 2nd gear, ESP off and doing about 4,500 rpm. Wheels were spinning and mud was flying but I was making progress. I made the climb and everyone else went around it!

Shortly afterwards, the prop shaft bearing expired. I can't imagine why...
 
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