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Change Engine Oil and Filter - Toureg 2004 3.2i V6 Auto - Dec 2009

Service Schedule available here: http://www.hardeysmotorwerks.com/media/05Touareg.pdf

I decided to do my first oil and filter change myself on this vehicle at 26,400 miles. Last change was previous owner's dealer service at around 16,000 miles with VW long-life Oil.

As a time-served engineer I've always done my own servicing but this is a learning curve for me as it's a more complicated vehicle than my previous Honda Accord, which I serviced all it's life.

The drawback to doing your own servicing is that you have no service record from a dealer when you sell, but I run my vehicles long-term so they're not worth a lot when I sell, plus I keep meticulous service records myself. But you can save yourself a lot of money if you can do it yourself, and once you get into it, there's really nothing to it - cars need a lot less actual servicing work than they used to. It's just when things go seriously wrong that your need the specialist knowledge and equipment a dealer has to repair.

I did some research on the Internet and found some useful information about V6 Oil changes including the above service schedule on the Owners Toureg US site here - http://www.clubtouareg.com - but the information was minimal so I intend here to give a lot more information to help others, having learned how to do it myself. I reckon next time it should take no more than 2 hours - took about 3 this time, though I did take my time.

If you have access to a pit or ramps this job will be a lot easier, but I did this on the ground, so it can be done. However, this is no easy job to do, and there are serious safety issues, so if you don't feel confident, take it to the dealer or an independent mechanic. My dealer wanted ?212 to do the job.

I bought 10 litres of Quantum 3 VW Long Life Oil for ?75, plus a VW oil filter for around ?10. The car takes about 6.5 lites, so with 10 Litres you have enough for another change by buying another 5 lites. Castrol's 5w-30 Long-life oil which Castrol recommend works out at around ?45 for a 4 litre can, which is quite a bit more expensive, and I would not be a bit surprised if it's not the same oil they make for VW?

Safety first - if you are crawling under a car of this size and weight, safety is a big consideration - many have been killed with cars falling on them, and if you think about it for just one moment - what a horrible way to go!

1 - Safety - level ground - garage floor - in park and parking brake on - chock both rear wheels front and back. You should use latex gloves and safety glasses when draining hot oil. Run the engine for a time to make sure the engine reaches running temp.

2 - Jack up the car at front near-side (passenger side in UK) I find the large sub-frame mounting bolt just to the rear of the front wheel a good jacking point, and place an axle stand under the near-side chassis member just to the front of the front wheel before letting the weight onto the stand. Leave the jack in place as an additional support.

3 - Remove the front wheel and place it on it's side under the car just to the rear of the jack. That way you have the car on an axle stand, with the jack in place and the wheel under as well - just in case. Jacks can fail, and axle stands can slide or tip, the wheel is wide enough to save you if all else fails - so NEVER rely on just one support.

4 - Make sure the engine is warmed-up but not too hot - you don't want to be burned with the oil when you release the plugs.

5 - Tools: 19mm ring spanner for sump (oil pan) plug. A straight 6mm hex (Allen Key) drive with extension bars and ratchet if possible for filter housing drain plug - about a 10 inch extension. 36mm socket with about 10 inch extension bar for oil filter housing. 10 mm socket for sump guard. Small flash light or lamp. Drain tub. I used a 10 litre plastic container and cut a hole 6 X 8 inches in its side. Also, I used a smaller plastic container with a cut-out side and a plastic milk container for a funnel.

6 - Remove the 6 x 10mm set-bolts and remove the rear plastic sump guard - the front one does not need to be removed.

7 - Place lots of newspaper or cardboard under the front of the vehicle.

8 - I drained the oil filter before the sump, as this is the trickiest part. The oil filter is located on the near-side (left or kerb side if you are in England) of the engine directly above the front n/s drive shaft housing. Locate the 6mm hex plug in the centre and carefully remove the plug with the hex (Allen key) drive and extension bar, making sure the oil drainer is below to catch the oil. Keep the plug in place when loose to carefully direct the oil flow, otherwise it will be all over the garage floor.

9 - Allow the filter to fully drain - around 1/2 to one litre - then unscrew the plastic filter casing with the 36mm socket and extension bar. Carefully extract the filter casing with the filter element inside it around the drive shaft housing and out. Not an easy job when lying on your back under the car. You may need a flash light to help you see.

10 - Next, another tricky part. Carefully remove the sump drain plug with the 19mm ring spanner making sure the oil drainer is in place. Great care is now needed unless you'd like a swim in hot engine oil. I made a make-shift funnel to direct the oil down into the oil drainer - the oil comes out horizontally so it really spurts-out sideways, if you totally remove the plug. The secret is to ease the plug out ever so slowly until you can direct the oil into the funnel so you direct it around the obstructions. Be prepared for some drips and remember the oil is HOT!

11 - Allow the oil to fully drain. You may need to level up the vehicle to make sure all the oil drains, by moving the jack to the other side temporarily. Make sure you replace it again before going under.

12 - Remove the filter element from the plastic filter casing and the large O-ring seal supplied with the filter - give it a good clean with a lint free cloth before fitting the new seal.

13 - I re-used the small O-ring seal on the filter casing drain plug because a new one is not supplied with the filter. So long as it's not damaged you can smear it with some high melting point grease and re-use without problems. I'll replace mine with a new one from the dealer next time. Screw in the filter drain plug and tighten with the hex drive - don't over-tighten.

14 - Clean and replace the sump (oil pan) plug - again I re-used the seal washer - so long as there's no damage it is perfectly OK. Tighten but not over tight.

15 - Replace the filter casing to the engine with the new element inside. Re-check the tightnes of the casing and the hex filter drain plug.

16 - Using a clean funnel, refill the engine with oil. I put in about 6 litres then start-up the engine carefully and check for any leaks before topping up to correct level.

17 - Clean up all the paper etc. and drain the oil into a sealed container for proper disposal at your local tip.

18 - Replace the wheel and lower the vehicle for a final oil level and leaks check. Check these again over the next few days.

Next time I will certainly try to borrow my cousin's pit, which will make the job a lot easier.

One other thing I did which is entirely unconventional and I wouldn't recommend unless you are confident in what you are doing: I used a small powerful magnet from an old discarded computer hard drive inside the filter casing. These are extremely powerful small permanent magnets, the theory being that the tiniest particles of metal flowing around the engine will be collected on the magnet and can be removed next oil change. I found this tip on a web site but the recommendation was to fix the magnet to the outside of the filter casing. In this case, with a plastic casing, this could not be done, So I found the magnet fitted nicely on the outside of the filter element inside the casing, without any possibility of it doing any harm. See photos

One last task:

When I did this job I discovered that the wheel hub centre retaining nuts and threads were quite rusty. It seems the centre VW plastic centre caps on the alloys allow water to penetrate to the hub causing excessive corrosion. I cleaned all the four wheel hub threads with a wire brush and found some plastic caps off deodorant spray cans which just fitted over the hub spindles and into the disk hubs. These I filled with high melting point grease and placed over the hub nuts to prevent further corrosion.
 

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Chairman
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19,968 Posts
Excellent post!


I change my oil twice a year - the VW dealer does it on the annual service but my local garage does it on the interim for around ?100 as well as looking around the underside of the car for any faults - suspension, steering, brakes, etc - while they wait for the oil to drain.
 

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Premium Member
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529 Posts
Very useful and comprehensive post - Thanks!

Cheers,
John
 

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Super Moderator
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15,678 Posts
Why not make some photoes?It is a long story to read.
OP posted this thread in December 2009 and was last active here in Dec 2012


Similar link here but photos are no longer accessible:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/diy-v6-tdi-oil-change-58541.html

Similar (long) link with some photos here (V8):

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/diy-oil-change-for-4-2l-v8-8063.html

Simple thing to realise here is if you do this as a DIY job, it will take you up to 2 hours and it can get messy


Correct spec oils here:

View attachment 2360
 

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Registered
Joined
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10 Posts
OP posted this thread in December 2009 and was last active here in Dec 2012


Similar link here but photos are no longer accessible:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/diy-v6-tdi-oil-change-58541.html

Similar (long) link with some photos here (V8):

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/diy-oil-change-for-4-2l-v8-8063.html

Simple thing to realise here is if you do this as a DIY job, it will take you up to 2 hours and it can get messy


Correct spec oils here:

View attachment 2360
Hello mate...the spec oils jpg link doesn't seem to work. Can you reload please. thanks
 

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15,678 Posts

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