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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - I have done some reading of the faults/fixes etc that folks list and must say, this does look to be a very informative forum compared to some others I am on.

I am looking at buying a Tourareg due to having 2 dogs and also the need to tow a car on a trailer a few times a year.
Not wanting to sink too much money into a car of this nature as it may not be used all the time so am looking towards an older T1 model with around 75-100k miles on it.
Just wondering if people think this would be a good buy or am I likely to inherit a few big issues at this sort of age/mileage? I am not too clued up on the Touraregs tbh so any issues would likely need rectifying at a garage (independent)
Am I better off increasing the budget or in general, are the T1's a decent buy?

Cheers

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a good thread on this forum about things to look for when buy a Treg. Would be well worth a read.

All the best
Hi - Yes I have seen the thread and actually printed it out to take with me tbh but I was just wondering, based on users experience if a higher miles T1 would be a money pit or a reasonable purchase.
Luck of the draw to a large extent I know and I've had low mile cars go wrong and high mile cars be ok so I guess its almost like a rhetorical question in some ways..........cheers
 

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I have zero experience of the T1 other than a Client of mine had one back when they were current. He loved it to bits!!

One of the fountains of knowledge will chime in soon with some tangible info for you.

:)
 

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My advice would be the same as with any car - buy the best one you can and budget for problems from the outset. Condition and service history are all important and remember with a limited budget, you are unlikely to find an example which doesn’t have some issues. Parts can be expensive as this was launched as a luxury VW SUV, dealers charge premium rates for parts and labour and not every independent garage are competent on working on them. Given the choice of the 2.5 R5 engine or the 3.0 V6TDI, I would personally ho for the latter every time.

Read the buyers guide several times and buy with your head, not your heart 👍
 
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Get a T2.
 

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My tuppence worth . .

I bought a 06 Touareg commercial for less than €500, it's a 2 owner van with the previous owner 13 years, a service history and 388,000kms under its belt
It had an engine problem (injector)
Electrical problems (webasto heater, faulty heater controls)
And needed the mother of all services, 2 tyres and brakes all round
I am lucky enough to have the skillset to be able to do all the work myself
Bought, repaired, serviced, insured, tested and 12 months road tax, cost €2000 (y)

If you can buy and repair and fettle it yourself then go for it
Otherwise become friends with someone who has the means to look after it right
 
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Just took delivery of my T1 today… previously owned a T2 3.0 and a new 2017 R line. Any T1 or T2 put a healthy 2-4K budget aside. Just doing discs, brake callipers, oil, filters, batteries, tyres etc will eat ££££. It’s about having the monetary funds to stay ahead of any potential break downs imho.
 

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Has it got a factory fit towbar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Has it got a factory fit towbar?
Its got a towbar but not sure its factory fit. So long as the electrics work properly it will be fine for me.
The electrics are part of the MOT test now and it will get a new ticket before i collect.
 

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Its got a towbar but not sure its factory fit. So long as the electrics work properly it will be fine for me.
The electrics are part of the MOT test now and it will get a new ticket before i collect.
If it's a factory-fit towbar they can't test it on the MoT - the socket isn't accessible when it's stowed away and they aren't allowed to deploy it. In any case they only test the road light circuits, not the optional circuits like fridge or battery charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If it's a factory-fit towbar they can't test it on the MoT - the socket isn't accessible when it's stowed away and they aren't allowed to deploy it. In any case they only test the road light circuits, not the optional circuits like fridge or battery charging.
Won't be a factory fit then but will hopefully suit my needs. I am not towing a caravan, only a trailer so presumably I don't need the Fridge circuit etc but I admit, I am not fully clued on such things tbh.
 

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Its got a towbar but not sure its factory fit. So long as the electrics work properly it will be fine for me.
The electrics are part of the MOT test now and it will get a new ticket before i collect.
I had a Skoda Octavia with a 13 pin electric fixed towbar and my current Treg has a factory fitted towbar with the 13 pin socket and in the last 5 MOTs at no time have they tested the socket for the correct operation even though it's listed as a testable item on the MOT checklist and as @Black Grouse says they are not permitted to deploy a retractable towbar anyway, next year I might deploy mine before the test and see if they ignore the 13 pin connector again Post 2014 VW did fully wire the 13 pin connector so that it did have the Ignition ON supply
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had a Skoda Octavia with a 13 pin electric fixed towbar and my current Treg has a factory fitted towbar with the 13 pin socket and in the last 5 MOTs at no time have they tested the socket for the correct operation even though it's listed as a testable item on the MOT checklist and as @Black Grouse says they are not permitted to deploy a retractable towbar anyway, next year I might deploy mine before the test and see if they ignore the 13 pin connector again Post 2014 VW did fully wire the 13 pin connector so that it did have the Ignition ON supply
I guess it depends on your MOT tester obviously as with a few things MOT related...............
My son is an MOT tester at a main dealer (not vw) and there they all routinely include testing of the towbar socket.
Am hoping for for my own info that he can bring the testing equipment home and we can check it ourselves anyway.
 

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The MOT inspection manual says:
You must only inspect the trailer electrical socket on vehicles fitted with a towing coupling.

If there’s no tow ball or pin, but the attachment brackets are still in place, you must assess the electrical sockets if the tow ball or pin has been:
  • detached
  • unbolted
  • otherwise removed
You do not need to assess the electrical sockets if the attachment brackets have been deliberately made unfit for further use.

You do not need to assess the trailer electrical socket if you need tools or specialist equipment to remove access panels in the bumper or bodywork to gain access to the socket.

A trailer electrical socket with a defective or missing cover flap that incorporates a lug and spring to hold the plug in place is not considered to be a defect.
I read that to mean that they should test the socket even if:

1. The towbar is deployable from a button in the boot.
2. The towbar is detachable and the bracket and socket are concealed behind an access panel that doesn't require tools to open.
 
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