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Boost pressure regulation code dilemma - possible Turbo - R5 TDI BPE

265 Views 17 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  hunterlees
Hi there, had a look around the myriad of posts on turbo issues, all very helpful - I've still not been able to pinpoint a solution to my particular issue however!

Basically, I bought the car recently (FSH, one owner etc), cleared the codes and have run for a while. The EML comes on intermittently and only when on a steady motorway run, not running round. In the original set of codes I cleared, there was an EGR one, but I think that is historical, as it has never returned and EGR looks fairly clean inside. The only persistent code is 000665 and as I say that only appears on motorway runs after approx 20 mins. As it happens, the EML has now disappeared by own accord for last few days. Have big trip to France coming up so I need to sort somehow.

Have taken to my local VW indy who gave it a quick look over and couldn't find any obvious issues with the pipe work or immediate symptoms on the turbo- they verified that it drives well for an 08 91k Touareg and are a bit stumped themselves. Their assessment is that it is most likely the turbo slowly degrading, but did not suggesting I replace turbo until some more definitive symptoms occur. Just as well as they want £1.6k :-(

So what to do... I'm in a bit of a dilemma with the holiday looming. I could change turbo only to find it's something else.. not helpful.. Are there any suggestions people can make? Any deep dive procedures on sensors or pipes I can do at home (I have an old VCDS I've managed to resurrect)?

I'm tempted to get a new turbo and DIY, but seems fairly involved with supporting the engine and swinging mount out of the way etc, so could do without that right now.

Grateful for any thoughts that may help me with enjoying my baguettes rather than bearings.. :)

Thanks.
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Electrical gremlins in these things are horrific. At least from my research (after buying unfortunately) and experience.
I'm on my second set of control modules from donor cars.

As much as I apologise for not being able to offer actual help I would be keen to know how you get on changing the turbo at home if you choose to go down that route. I have a similar issue where I have an intermittent turbo fault. Different code but behaviour is exactly the same.
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Just had my turbo sorted under warranty as it was leaking oil into the intercooler, picked it up yesterday in fact. Done under warranty at a total cost of £1,033 including the vat. Mine had the turbo removed, rebuilt and refitted as warranty company wouldn’t stump up got a new one.

A new turbo is £2,500 so at £1,600 they must be doing a similar job. When garage checked for me there were no recon turbos available anywhere hence the rebuild of mine.

Not an answer to doing it diy but an indication of price and supply chain problems for you
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If a new turbo is needed then a rebuild by a reputable company is the way to go
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Is this any help?

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Just had my turbo sorted under warranty as it was leaking oil into the intercooler, picked it up yesterday in fact. Done under warranty at a total cost of £1,033 including the vat. Mine had the turbo removed, rebuilt and refitted as warranty company wouldn’t stump up got a new one.

A new turbo is £2,500 so at £1,600 they must be doing a similar job. When garage checked for me there were no recon turbos available anywhere hence the rebuild of mine.

Not an answer to doing it diy but an indication of price and supply chain problems for you
Thanks
Is this any help?

Thanks - yep that's the one that gave me a little inspiration!
Thanks


Thanks - yep that's the one that gave me a little inspiration!

Just wondering if there is a way I can confirm it is the turbo before I go ahead.. any advice on other components I can discount first? Maybe a list of pipes to check (and how, to be 100% sure they are not the culprit), any other VCDS tests I can do, other components etc..? Welcome thoughts. Thanks.
Just wondering if there is a way I can confirm it is the turbo before I go ahead.. any advice on other components I can discount first? Maybe a list of pipes to check (and how, to be 100% sure they are not the culprit), any other VCDS tests I can do, other components etc..? Welcome thoughts. Thanks.
Only thing I can tell you is that mine was found when the intercooler pipe was found to be leaking during a service. When it went back in to replace the pipe seals they found a big puddle of oil in it when the pipe was removed plus I'd been using oil for the last few months. They then tested everything and found the turbo oil seal was leaking but hidden from view until the system was stripped down.

Maybe drop the intercooler pipe and see if it's full of oil? I didn't have any real symptoms before that initial puddle of oil was found though.
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Only thing I can tell you is that mine was found when the intercooler pipe was found to be leaking during a service. When it went back in to replace the pipe seals they found a big puddle of oil in it when the pipe was removed plus I'd been using oil for the last few months. They then tested everything and found the turbo oil seal was leaking but hidden from view until the system was stripped down.

Maybe drop the intercooler pipe and see if it's full of oil? I didn't have any real symptoms before that initial puddle of oil was found though.
Thanks, had a quick look but only a little bit of oil on the walls, that's it
So I have had another look today.

Started by trying the old soapy water trick on all joints and pipes and getting one of the kids to rev her up a bit.... nothing.

Then had a look inside the turbo inlet pipe. Here's a photo.. all looks pretty clean and intact as far as I can see. Had a spin of the impeller with fingertips and feels silky smooth and spins ok (as best as one can tell with fingertips!).

Then I had look inside the EGR again - lots of deposits on the rod that bisects the EGR body from the exhaust recirc pipe, whatever that's called (EGR nowhere near blocked though). So I cleaned that as best I could insitu as I couldn't remove the recirculation pipe (removed the two bolts but seems stuck fast - any ideas?) which needs to come out to access final EGR body bolt. All good so far...

then I went back to the turbo outlet to intercooler pipe. It seems attached to turbo by a metal pipe which when wiggled moves - quite a bit..could this be the source of the unexpected boot levels..? Here is a video... grateful for thoughts before I go further.


Thanks

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Believe from other posts that there’s a 10mm bolt hidden under the assembly somewhere that also needs to be removed. Seems a common problem that it’s missed
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Believe from other posts that there’s a 10mm bolt hidden under the assembly somewhere that also needs to be removed. Seems a common problem that it’s missed
Thanks - do you mean that is why there's movement in the pipe?
Thanks - do you mean that is why there's movement in the pipe?
Don't know myself, you need to dig around the forum for the relevant posts i'm afraid
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I'd just drive it (y)

My Treg was bought as a lockdown project, 1 owner, 370000kms and has now 430k kms on the original mechanicals
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The pipe is held in by the metal clip and sealed with an O-ring. It should not move around like it does I believe. You need to release the clip to remove the pipe
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Have you checked the actuator to ensure that the variable vanes in the turbo are not sticking due to carbon buildup?
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Have you checked the actuator to ensure that the variable vanes in the turbo are not sticking due to carbon buildup?
Thanks,no I haven't - how do you do that?
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