Getting ready for off roading... - myTreg forums

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Getting ready for off roading...

#1 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 21 November 2019 - 05:54 PM

Heading off for some fun this weekend and likely will involve wading - I have the 3L V6 non air sus so wading max depth will be 500mm.

I've heard stories about badness happening when people have waded... obviously need to avoid speed and bow waves etc.

My question - is there a way to check that all the intake/turbo piping connectors are sealed well other than a vis inspection? Is there a pressure test that can be done?

Tim
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#2 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 08:11 PM

Had an awesome morning out with the 4x4 response chaps for the local area at David Bowyer's track nr Crediton.

Have put a vid together which is linked at https://www.youtube....h?v=qXdNiVYaKJQ

I think there was a degree of scepticism until the Treg performed.

Bit of fun.

Will need to replace a few clips and do a little repair to the rear bumper tho!
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#3 User is offline   Black Grouse 

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 08:41 PM

 timpearkes, on 25 November 2019 - 08:11 PM, said:

Had an awesome morning out with the 4x4 response chaps for the local area at David Bowyer's track nr Crediton.

Have put a vid together which is linked at https://www.youtube....h?v=qXdNiVYaKJQ

They evidently underestimated the Touareg until it performed each time :)

Bit of fun !


Great stuff - what tyres are you usung?
2016 MY Touareg SE 262 - Reef Blue

#4 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 09:16 PM

 Black Grouse, on 25 November 2019 - 08:41 PM, said:

Great stuff - what tyres are you usung?


Grabber AT3s - about 1/3 worn
Running them on Porsche Cayenne wheels - 18s I think...

PS. Would defo recommend a morning there... top quality trails although we may have written off that one beside the stream!
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#5 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 10:13 PM

Having been driving some rougher terrain recently I've been looking into underbody protection for the Treg. Its a little limited to say the least.

On eBay there are a few options - mainly 2 - 2.5m steel protection for the sump and transmission.

Antec parts are available via http://www.upcountry...4x4-styling.asp but at a premium.

Side protection / rock sliders are limited online for the Treg - only available from Antec again but massively overpriced as you have to purchase a fitting kit.

I'm looking at getting some plans drawn up and asking the local engineering team to help with the build.

I would be looking to produce rails and full central underbody kit. I know Drag has done this in Aus but would be keen to cover a little more and come up the front expanding to either side.

This is not going to be a quick project due to ongoing life but I wondered how much interest there would be if I made a little venture out of this and went on to offer a decent set of products.

Obvs cost and quality will be key.

Let me know your thoughts people.

Tim
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#6 User is offline   Lord Flasheart 

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 10:57 PM

 timpearkes, on 25 November 2019 - 08:11 PM, said:

Had an awesome morning out with the 4x4 response chaps for the local area at David Bowyer's track nr Crediton.

Have put a vid together which is linked at https://www.youtube....h?v=qXdNiVYaKJQ

I think there was a degree of scepticism until the Treg performed.

Bit of fun.

Will need to replace a few clips and do a little repair to the rear bumper tho!


Excellent video, great to see the Treg stretching its legs, did loads of off-roading / laning in our old Cherokee & then modded TJ for over 12 years. Often wondered how our previous T2 would have coped, had a little play with it but nothing too serious. As much as I enjoy my T3 now & how useful its been on waterlogged local smaller roads recently, if I had to go anywhere a bit more testing, my old T2 with Low range etc would be much better suited, sometimes wish I had kept it but ......

#7 User is offline   Greg 

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 12:35 PM

Excellent video , even without the articulation it performed brilliantly , well done to you and the Treg .

 timpearkes, on 25 November 2019 - 08:11 PM, said:

Had an awesome morning out with the 4x4 response chaps for the local area at David Bowyer's track nr Crediton.

Have put a vid together which is linked at https://www.youtube....h?v=qXdNiVYaKJQ

I think there was a degree of scepticism until the Treg performed.

Bit of fun.

Will need to replace a few clips and do a little repair to the rear bumper tho!

VW Touareg 2016 R Line , Reef Blue, parking heater , 100 litre fuel tank ,14 way upgrade leather seats , Westfalia tow bar, sometimes with a canoe on top and with a caravan in tow
Previously VW Touareg 2011 SE in Pearl Black with lots of extras, had for about 5 yrs

#8 User is offline   KNB 

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Posted 27 November 2019 - 09:39 PM

I would be very interested in how you get on with under body protection and rock rails. I have a 2004 3.2 V6 which I have done a fair bit of off roading in here in Northern Ireland. Unfortunately it is currently on Sorn due to health issues but hoping to have it back on the road by mid 2020.
2003 3.2 V6. Flappy paddles and screaming passengers

#9 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 07:35 PM

Making progress on the underbody protection... whilst I had one side skirt off for sorting rust I kept my eye open for some Cayenne steps or side sill protectors that I had heard would likely fit a Touareg. Randomly some popped up on eBay for v cheap and in reasonable condition - snapped them up (I think helped by the fact they had spelt Cayenne incorrectly). Was aware that they had some work to be done on them but couldn't ignore them for £120 posted.

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Offered it up to the side without the side skirt on and the plastic tray removed - they are definitely a perfect fit. Have disassembled them into components and am going to paint them... will upload pics as I go but thought people may be interested to know these fit for sure.

More to follow
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#10 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 11:45 AM

Progress so far:

Car prep - both side skirts now off - this is tricky to do without damaging the paintwork on the sill, I'd suggest a blunt thin paint knife used with a mallet to slip in between - they are held on partly with hard setting sealant and partly with double sided tape. Start with the underside first and then work along the base of the door. Once these were off it was apparent that there were patches of rust that they were hiding - I'd almost be tempted if your car is the same age as mine (2009) or earlier to get these off to check. Rust removed, treated and overpainted. The whole of the underside of the sill had a small coating of rust so same treatment applied. Sill bungs removed in order to do this thoroughly then replaced and underside treated with stone chip type underbody paint. The ends of the sills are under the arches - check these too, mine had some rust there.

Purchased some M8 hex nut rivets from amazon, some M8 penny washers and sourced in my box of random nuts and bolts a few M8 bolts and nuts...

Removed the undersill plastic (I'd already done this to treat the sills) and identified the hexagonal holes that would take the hex nuts and were required for fitting these sills. Essentially there are three hex holes along the longitudinal beams, one will have a plastic insert in it to take a screw for the undersill plastic. Remove this. There are then three holes to take each of the end brackets and two centrally on the inner side of the sill beam (see the final pics below).

If you haven't inserted a hex nut rivet before then you are in for a treat - they are a dream once you know how to do it and an absolute nightmare until you do... I stupidly worked on this for a couple of hours before turning to youtube... you don't need a fancy tool, you need the following:

An M8 bolt around 50mm length, an M8 nut (non nylock) or event better an M8 barrel nut, some grease, a few standard m8 washers and the hex nut rivets.

***EDIT - or you can buy a riv nut tool which I now have purchased!!!***

The construct should look like this...

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Make sure the washers are lubed up to act as a bearing.

Place the rivet into the hex hole up to the hilt, hold the bolt static with a 14mm spanner and use the 13mm to turn the nut - this will hold the rivet still (despite the hex they have really poor rotational resistance) and compress it on the rear side of the metal keep going for 2-3 complete turns once its tight, remove the construct leaving the rivet in situ and check its internal buckled and the thread has been pulled up nearly to the hole.

Once all are in place the brackets are fitted - some of these came in a reasonable shape from the bay seller with the sill protectors - rust removed, treated and painted up, a couple were not recoverable so purchased new from rosepassion.com (in France but the only company posting them at this time as Porshe uk are closed). Roughly about £20 per bracket. Fitted using M8 wide head bolts that again came with the sill protectors and have been cleaned up.

A few pics of the hex rivet nuts going in and the brackets in place... sprayed the brackets and nuts with the underbody paint once fitted to try and prevent water ingress into the interface and further rust.

Hex rivet nuts going in

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Front bracket

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Middle bracket

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Rear bracket

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Now am waiting for a delivery of paint before I can move forward... more to follow.
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#11 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 08:56 PM

I disassembled the side steps so all the rubber trim components were removed - if anyone is going to do this in the future PM me and I'll go into more detail as you could damage the rubber if unaware of how it is fixed.

Spinning wire brush treatment to remove all of the oxide layer and rough it up a bit, then degreased and painted - acid etch primer followed by 2-3 coats of Raptor 2K, allowed to go off for 24 hours then reassembled.

Fitted to the car tonight and they look great - subtle enough not to intrude in daily life but effective as a step and I anticipate they will be effective as sill and underbody protection.

They don't reduce the ground clearance at all but match the lowest aspect of the exhaust/tank etc.

Deliberately didn't go all the way under with the paint as it will likely take some dings.

Pretty chuffed with the lucky eBay find and looking forward to testing them out. Am realistic about the fact that they are aluminium and not steel so will not be truly sliding on rocks on these.
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#12 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 05:31 PM

They seem to be like buses - none for ages and now another two sets pop up in the uk....

eBay item no 324157091042 and 153487628816
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#13 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 07:22 PM

Have made some progress on creating a sump/box/transmission guard...

All aspects of the design are an amalgamation of what I've found online... created from 3mm mild steel - will be galvanised shortly

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Planning to drill a few extra choice holes to reduce weight and some small ones to allow a little water drainage and avoid any water sitting

Rocksliders next
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#14 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 03 November 2020 - 08:38 PM

Cracked on with the rock sliders...

Once these are done I've just got to make a rear diff guard and then all of the parts are off to the galvanisers.... lockdown pending that is.

I'm contemplating whether to leave the sliders open at the back so they can drain if they do get any water in, there are 20mm diameter holes allowing communication between all tube and box section.

1. Options are leave fully open at the back so water free flows in and out
2. Seal them up, and on the rear end drill a drainage hole and fill with a rubber bung
3. Weld them up once galvanised with the risk any water that gets in stays trapped

Anyone got any advice from their experience?

I wondered if I put together a set of plans with dimensions for what I've done so far if people would be interested so they can do something similar? Theres been a lot of head scratching that's gone into these and I think it could save someone a lot of planning time if they thought my designs were up to scratch?

Pls ignore the untidy workshop background!!

Progress pictures (I'll get some on the car shortly):

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#15 User is offline   NoobyT 

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Posted 03 November 2020 - 08:58 PM

Never weld after galvanising.

A ) It spoils a good finish

and

B ) You get nasty gases.
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VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
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FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1, 957 = T2, 958.1 = T3 and 958.2 = T4

#16 User is offline   timpearkes 

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Posted 03 November 2020 - 09:08 PM

 NoobyT, on 03 November 2020 - 08:58 PM, said:

Never weld after galvanising.

A ) It spoils a good finish

and

B ) You get nasty gases.


Agreed...

My understanding is that when galvanising it HAS to have holes in every compartment to allow the zinc to flow through and also to avoid the gases in an encased space expanding and blowing your project up??

If I did go for the welded shut option it would be with a 10mm diameter hole at each end to allow the zinc ingress/egress which wouldn't be easily seen. I would close with a few runs of the mig and spray it over.
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